GUCCI HORSEBIT – 70 YEARS OF LEGENDARY ELEGANCE

The story of the Gucci Horsebit begins long before the emblem itself was created. Guccio Gucci, the founder of the house, started his career as a porter at London’s luxurious Savoy Hotel. Surrounded by aristocracy and their refined luggage, he developed a vision of luxury and prestige that would later define the brand’s DNA. Upon returning to Florence, he decided to craft products that embodied elegance — and at that time, nothing represented luxury more than equestrian sport.

Equestrian motifs became an integral part of Gucci’s aesthetic: metal clasps, rings, straps, and interlaced webbing were inspired by saddles and bridles, while it is believed that the shape of the iconic Bamboo bag drew inspiration from the silhouette of a saddle. Gucci still embraces this heritage today — from sponsoring prestigious races, to designing equipment for jockeys, to featuring horses prominently in its fashion campaigns.

The birth of an icon

The 1950s marked a turning point. In 1953, Guccio Gucci passed away, leaving the brand to his sons Aldo, Rodolfo, and Vasco. That same year, the first Gucci store in America opened in New York, and it was there that the now-famous Horsebit — a miniature version of the metal rings found on horse bridles — was born. It first appeared on loafers, which quickly became a sensation, selling 84,000 pairs annually in the US alone. In 1985, they became part of the permanent collection of New York’s MET Museum.

HORSEBIT, 1955.

Two years later, in 1955, the Horsebit appeared on a handbag that would become a classic — today’s Horsebit 1955. With its structured shape, refined proportions, and signature metal clasp, it became an instant icon.

GUCCI HORSEBIT, A MODEL FROM THE FIRST HALF OF THE FIFTY-SIX

Modern reinterpretations

In 2003/04, Tom Ford redesigned the bag, enlarging the Horsebit emblem and introducing the Horsebit Chain, which became one of the most coveted accessories of the time. After fading from the spotlight in the early 21st century, the style made a comeback in 2019 when Kendall Jenner was photographed with a vintage Horsebit Chain bag — a moment Alessandro Michele transformed into a full revival in his Cruise 2020 collection.

Tom Ford

Michele also introduced a major innovation — the Horsebit 1955 became Gucci’s first handbag crafted without animal-derived materials, using the vegan Demetra textile. In 2023, Billie Eilish fronted the campaign, underscoring the blend of luxury and sustainability.

Billie Elish 2019.

Seventy years later

This year, Gucci celebrates seven decades since the Horsebit first appeared on a handbag. On the Milan runway for Fall/Winter 2025, the icon was reimagined with a contemporary minimalist touch. The fashion world was taken by surprise when, just two weeks before the show, creative director Sabato De Sarno departed, with Demna, formerly of Balenciaga, stepping into the role.

Seventy years on, the Horsebit remains an unmistakable emblem of Gucci elegance — proof that true luxury never goes out of style, it simply reinvents itself for a new era.