David Koma Takes the Helm at Blumarine: What to Expect Next

By ID SHOPPER CONCEPT

 

When Georgian-born, London-based designer David Koma was appointed Creative Director of Blumarine in July 2024, fashion insiders braced for a bold transformation  . His pre-fall 2025 debut and the marquee Cortina of the Fall/Winter 2025 runway have confirmed one thing: Blumarine is swinging toward dramatic, ‘dark romanticism’.

Collection Schedule — What’s Coming & When

• Pre‑Fall 2025 arrived in January — a strategic “soft launch” blending Milanese street style with playful luxury, smoothing in Koma’s vision while building rapport with buyers  .
• Fall/Winter 2025 premiered at Milan Fashion Week (late February 2025), fully embracing cinematic Sicilian romance  .
• What’s next? Koma has termed the upcoming pre‑spring and Spring/Summer 2026 collections as his second and third phases, set to continue the narrative and fine-tune the brand’s new aesthetic in the second half of 2025 and early 2026  .

Key Aesthetic Elements to Expect

1. 

Dark, Structured Romance

Expect high-contrast palettes—deep noir, blood red, crisp white—with architectural tailoring and sculptural corsetry layered under fluid chiffons and lace  .

2. 

Sicilian-Cinematic Drama

Koma channels Italian screen goddesses through thistle motifs, metallic appliqués, fur-trimmed cabans, and Madonna-style necklines—all evoking a femme fatale energy  .

3. 

Material Contrast & Texture

Leather minis, scuba sheathes, shearling trims, lace, and crystal hardware combine structured sharpness with sensual movement  .

4. 

Playful Street Flair

Taking cues from Milan’s urban zest, expect Y2K nods, whimsical pet-themed slogans (e.g., “Woof”, “Miao”), fuzzy twinsets, and leather-trimmed accessories  .

5. 

More Democratic Luxe

Koma and Blumarine’s MD Barbara Baudo emphasize enhanced fabric quality at accessible price points (~€700–800 for dresses, European knitwear at €400–600) to broaden reach without sacrificing luxury  .

 Style Forecast: What You’ll See in Next Drops

• Corset-infused outerwear & jackets featuring structured bustiers and sharply defined waistlines
• Flowing eveningwear: lace-encrusted gowns, shirred georgette dresses, and pronounced back bows
• Textural separates: shearling coats, leather shirting, denim skirts with raw hems, crystal-studded denim
• Accessory heroes: pet-themed pendants, metallic rose hardware, statement “Kiss Me” and butterfly bags, knee-high boots with embellishments  

 

Expert Take

“The idea of dark romanticism really felt correct for this time… protective, but fragile; delicate, but aggressive.”

– David Koma discussing his FW25 vision 

 

 Final Take: Why This Matters for ID SHOPPER CONCEPT Readers

• Heritage meets modernity: Koma balances Blumarine’s romantic DNA with sharp British tailoring and cinematic flair.
• Wearable storytelling: Each piece invites individuals into a narrative—via textures, motifs, and structural elegance.
• Wider accessibility: Elevated fabrics with friendlier pricing signal more inclusive luxury.

Coming Up in 2025:

• Late Summer/Fall: Pre‑Spring/Summer 2026 drop—softer silhouettes, lighter fabrics, maybe even a return to pastels or heightened theatrics.
• Early 2026: Full Spring/Summer 2026 runway—expect the evolution of this confident, cinematic persona.